Looking over the menu at Divine in Okotoks, my first choice would likely have been its bison burger – they grind bacon in with the bison meat at the restaurant.
But, no. I decided to go out of my hamburger comfort zone this week and try the lamb burger instead.
It’s an understatement to say I was pleasantly surprised.
Chef Darren Nixon has created a total package from a different direction.
Between a fluffy whole-wheat hamburger bun is a nearly 200-gram lamb patty, mixed lettuce greens, cucumbers, mayonnaise and a home made pepper jelly sauce.
It should really be called a lamb and pepper jelly burger.
A little tangy, a little sweet – the sauce is perfect. It’s just as much a part of the overall flavour as the lamb. The sauce has a little bit of heat to it from the peppers that creeps up on you. It’s just enough to feel it, but it’s not overpowering.
It’s an excellent accompaniment to the lamb, as are the cucumbers. I’ve never had cucumbers on a burger before, but they’re a good fit – sweet and crisp, with a bright flavour that complements the lamb.
The patty is not too juicy and it has a mild lamb flavour and the lamb comes from Driview Farm near Fort Macleod.
Nixon doesn’t put any binder in the patty that means no breadcrumbs or eggs.
He simply uses minced onion, garlic and salt and pepper.
The lamb burger has been evolving for years, with the condiments and fixings changing with the seasons.
“What I’m always looking for on a lamb burger is something spicy, sweet and tangy,” he said.
When it comes to cooking a good burger, Nixon said it’s important to start with the right ingredients.
“A lot of people will use the cheapest ingredients you can get, but I believe you can still do a nice burger out of a good quality ground,” he said.
It’s also a common mistake to over-mix the patties before cooking them and there’s also a fine line to not overcook it, he added. It’s the main reason why a burger can shrink up almost into a ball when its cooking.
“When you work it, and work it, and work it, that’s quite often the issue is overworking it and it becomes tough,” he said. “You want to be gentle.”
One of three burgers on the menu, Nixon said the lamb burger was the restaurant’s bestseller for a long time, but it has since been overtaken by the bison burger.
I probably won’t get around to reviewing that one, but I’m definitely heading back to try it. After all, everything is better with bacon.
